|Lamb and potatoes at the Aran Fisherman|
The Aran Islands probably weren't fun places to eat when Synge was there, of course. Here's what he wrote:
...during the day they simply drink a cup of tea and eat a piece of bread, or some potatoes, whenever they are hungry. For men who live in the open air they eat strangely little. Often when Michael has been out weeding potatoes for eight of nine hours without food, he comes in and eats a few slices of home-made bread, and then he is ready to go out with me and wander for hours about the island. They use no animal food except a little bacon and salt fish. The old woman says she would be very ill if she ate fresh meat.
I can't speak to the general daily food of the people who live on the islands. There was one grocery store on Inis Mor that seemed very well stocked, though the vegetables and fruits were somewhat lacking, and I was surprised not to find a fish counter at the store. I was told that most people have a friend who fishes who brings them their fresh catch of the day.
Last year I didn't have a kitchen so I ate out a lot, but this time I will have a kitchen while I'm on Inis Mor, so maybe I'll make friends with a fisherman and get some fresh fish to cook at the house.
While I'm on Inis meain I'll be staying at my fellow Aran Islands blogger Elisabeth Koopman's house. I hear she has her own vegetable garden, so I'm really looking forward to seeing it, and to eating fresh organic food there.
Last year on Inis Mor I HAD to try different foods at the restaurants. Yes, pricey, because mostly tourists eat at the restaurants. Hence why I'm glad to have a kitchen this time. But trying the seafood was a must. Here's what was good:
- Fish sandwich and chowder at the seafood restaurant across from the American Bar (I can't recall the name)
- Lamb stew at the Aran Fisherman
- Pizza at Bayview Restaurant
- Oysters at Joe Wattie's
- The coffee and hot chocolate at the internet cafe was very good
Crab claws in butter sauce at the Aran Fisherman
And lunch one day with Helmut and Irmtraud at the Killeany Lodge, with vegetables from their organic garden.
Getting hungry now...